Tour Mont Blanc SNOW INFO - the big Cols - Bon Homme, Seigne & Grand Ferret
- www.montblanctrips.com
- Jun 15, 2024
- 17 min read
1st - 5th June 2024
How much snow remained in the Cols of the Tour Mont Blanc in late Spring 2024 and early summer of 2024?
Col de Bon Homme
Col de Seigne
Col de Grand Ferret
Here is what I saw in late Spring and early summer 2024. I being Claire from Mont Blanc Trips.
3 write ups for 3 outings:
a) 1st - 5th June 2024 Col Bon Homme (France) Col de Seigne (France/Italy) & Col Grand Ferret (Italy/Switzerland)
b) 26th May 2024 Col Bon Homme & Lac Jovets
c) 9 - 10th May 20224 Col Grand Ferret & La Fouly
1st June 2024 - Setting off up to Col de Bon Homme and to Chapieux
I parked at Notre Dame carpark, booted up, loaded shoulders and walked in.
I reminded myself of compass bearings to wake my brain up 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360, my legs started to wake up, I moved one foot in front of another under the weight or the enormous rucksack. I resembled a yeti. 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360. 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360. 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360. 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360. 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360. 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315, 360…I reached the snow line.
I put on the snow shoes opting for a flat consolidated snow terrain trap in front of me rather than the possible avalanche slope on higher ground. People ahead of me were walking in on the lower ground. I was encouraged by the compactedness of the snow underfoot and headed up the terrain trap towards the Col discounting the safer options on the higher ground to the side as the snow was going to heat up later one and the valley floor was less effort.
The high-risk plan to cross right to the right side to avoid the avalanche risk on the left side of the valley worked out as planned.
There were a group of Canadian kayakers ahead of me on the way up to Col BH (who I met by chance at dinner time in the same guest house).
The sides of the valley were beginning to slide in front of my eyes on the way in on the left, just as I was beginning to cross over to the right to pick up the way to the Col the heat was shining on the steep slopes. I would not want to have been any later. It was arguably already too late. The only safe option was in the night when snow was frozen in place.
The snow shoes were useful on the way up with the weight of the rucksack on the back. Fortunately, the snow was sufficiently present to support a snow shoe and the weight I chose to carry, they served each other well to get me up to the Col Bonhomme.
I opted for the direct snow shoes terrain trap approach given the snow underfoot was holding the snow shoes. As I got a bit nearer to the Col it got much warmer. I knew it was a gamble but I fancied it. It got hot.
It had been a hot morning and on reaching the Col I need a short rest. I knew there was no time to hang about given the sun was moving around to my preferred snow slope. I was hoping to get across left and up and around to the Refuge Bonhomme.
I swapped the snow shoes for crampons and 2 ice axes. I stamped around a bit in the Col before putting the rucksack back on and stepping towards the mountainside that needed crossing to reach higher ground. I used my ice axes and crampons to go around and up and over to the Refuge. I knew there was a safer mountain line on the top of the ridge, but when nearly at the top of the mountain side as the snow was better than expected I opted for a contour around on a higher risk traverse that contoured with considerable avalanche risk to the Cairn and around to Refuge Col Bon Homme but the relative compactedness of the snow was supporting my rucksack weight after the cold spell and recent snow. It all worked out fine.
I was delighted to be able to drink the flowing water running off the roof of Refuge Col Bonhomme as the sun melted the fresh snow. At Refuge Bon Homme I briefly checked out the winter room which was lovely, it was probably used ski tourers in the winter, lucky them. I had been busy working in a ski resort this winter and enjoyed the downhill there when I could. The water was still disconnected at the Refuge Bon Homme which would not be open for some weeks.
Fully rehydrated I looked at the options for reaching Chapieux. I weighed the options up against my planning in the library during the days before. Given my understanding of the snow underfoot I dismissed my ideas of Mya which would have to wait for another day. It was overly ambitious given my heavy rucksack, the melting snow, the time of day. I would return when I had a lighter rucksack and when it was colder. I opted for the direct descent across the new snow that I believed was sufficient to hold my weight. It turned out to be the case.
I had contemplated 3 different winter line options to reach Chapieux from the Refuge but I decided to traverse left above the ground which was also the TMB summer line down to Chapieux which was naturally still under several meters of snow but withstood my weight well and without difficulty so although I took a risk to proceed on the easiest and shortest route to Chapieux I wasn't disappointed with the choice as the Scarpa alpine boots made light work of striding through the snow on the way down.
There was man in front was enjoying jogging downhill through the snow.
The choice of descent in an alpine boot was fabulous, the ankle control was fine for the weight on my back. Other people were in trekking shoes sliding about and down happily enough but I do not think they had any weight on their shoulders or back, they were perhaps on a day outing. I was glad to have my alpine boots and 2 walking poles with me for stability and balance given the weight. Throughout the day heat made the snow slushier and sloppier and by the time I was on the last 100m of snow it was wet I sank in deep so I was glad to arrive at Chapieux Les Chambres du Soleil late afternoon and clean up for dinner. Chapieux village was completely free of snow. A couple of young French women who were descending to Chapieux just behind me in trail shoes albeit slipping quite a bit but they did not seem to be in need of any help, I watched them coming down the snow for a few minutes. They were doing well. I saw them at breakfast the following morning (they also stayed at the same guest house in Chapieux) and they said they both had sore eyes and partial snow blindness as they had not been wearing any eyewear the previous day. One of them said she could currently only see blue colours so I imagine she must have damaged the retina or something. Terrible. I sold them my spare sun glasses and snow goggles and wished them both well.
I did not regret using the MSR snow shoes on the way in which worked out fine with my rucksack. Even though there was no fresh powder they provide a degree of support on the snow on the way up to the Col with a heavy rucksack. It was the correct decision to remove them at the Col and opt for crampons to cross the icier mountainside after Col Bon Homme where every foot placement counted towards security. The higher up I was the more the ice was present. The winds had been sweeping through the Col in the previous stormy days. The top section was still frozen. Although I could have popped along the tops winter style on the left ridge I decided to step down and contour around lower down as snow seemed to be holding in place nicely above the altitude of the Col Bon Homme.
The winter safe alternative option was an alpine start from an alpine hut and a controlled scamper along the mountain ridge lines with no heavy rucksack which is arguably a lower risk option if the snow was still frozen but I could not evaluate that from the valley floor on 1st June and ski lifts and alpine huts are not free. A scamper on a ridge awaits for another day when it is winter again.
Reflecting on the day at Les Chapieux, as it was 1st June, the heat in the day warmed the remaining snow very quickly so there was a significant avalanche risk and the higher up into the Col de Bon Homme area I was the more the snow started to descend down the sides into the terrain trap as heat increased. The only safe option was the high ridge or higher ground but the rucksack and weight did not allow me such a scampering experience so I made a choice conscious that the colder weather in the previous 3 days had lowered the temperature of the snow pack, possibly sufficiently to facilitate an ascent to the Col Bon Homme, but it wasn’t a given. It was a gamble. I was most grateful for the preceding cold spell that permitted the consideration and evaluation of such a high-risk option which I chose rather than going high along the mountain tops. There were areas of hardened snow and ice next to the Col Bon Homme for my crampons but it was melting quickly and was undoubtedly a layer of icing that could easily move.
My bed in the guest house was in a room of 4, there was one other man, he recounted his tale of a day in the mountains where he had got lost in the mountains when he took a right turn down a path at Col Bon Homme having listened to a French man who “helpfully” gave him instructions of how to reach Refuge Bon Homme and Chapieux only to discover he has not gone down the mountain to the road and then had to walk back up the road to Chapieux, he had wanted to do the Tour Mont Blanc and go over the top but he had not found his way over the top of the mountains to the Refuge Bon Homme. I decided to teach him how to use a compass and a map and told him to buy both as soon as possible. He was using a guide book and a compass on a key ring that had not served him as he had hoped they would.
Dinner at the guest house Soleil in Chapieux was sociable. A Chinese Couple. The French man. The 3 Canadian Kayakers. The 2 young French ladies.
2nd June 2024 Chapieux to Courmayeur via Col de Seigne
After a sociable breakfast with the Canadian kayakers, 2 French women suffering from snow blindness, a Chinese couple who exclaimed they hoped to do the TMB in 7 days but were wondering if they could buy some sun glasses from somewhere as they only had one pair between the pair of them which were fashion eye wear (they appeared to have a possibly fake copy of a Burberry sun glass) so I suggested they buy some Category 4 eye protection in Courmayeur, where I was also heading via Col de Seigne into Italy with a view to reaching Courmayeur that evening. I was not overly concerned about the next section as there was less of a terrain trap risk as the wider valley offered a variety of possibilities to enter into Italy.
I set off up the road to Col de Seigne, then realised I had left my snow shoes hanging on a peg at the guest house so went back to get them. I lost 1 hour 45 mins and did an extra 6km which I did not calculate. To lift my mood, I was delighted to see some yellow Pulsatilles on the roadside and was overjoyed with such a fine sighting.
I continued up the road up and observed the lower foot path which was still covered in part by the snow where there was a group of trekkers. The path was in part dropping off into the river below but still passable using some snow patches higher up.
I knew Refuge Grand Montets was still closed but passed nearby to take a look, the geraniums were already planted and the cow sheds were being aired for the summer season. They still appeared to be wet from the recent storms.
It was a delightful ascent to Col de Seigne. I pottered up to Col de Seigne cutting steps with my alpine boots as I went for myself and the groups of people behind me.
I did not see the Chinese couple again who must have made good progress that morning ahead of me. I presume the French man made an early start as he was not at breakfast. I passed the 3 Canadian trekkers (who all spoke French, English and Chinese) and had the pleasure of seeing them again in the evening at Hobo campsite. I passed the large group of possibly Italian trekkers on the way up to Col de Seigne, I did not see them again until I saw them descending into Italy into Val Veny from further down the valley, they were a mixed group of slow walkers and slimmer looking walkers.
In Col de Seigne the snow was lying about and looked lovely. I was delighted to the alpine pulsatilles on patches of grass with their white and purple tinged petals opening to the sun and presenting their yellow pom pom inside to the world. The snows were melting in some areas and patches of ground were visible between the considerable amount of snow still everywhere.
On reaching the terrain by the first Italian building below Col de Siegne, I descended to the little bridge (which was visible) to the left and crossed to the left side of the valley and moved through the valley along the higher ground on the left side to avoid the steep sided terrain trap in the valley on the right below.
The walk through the valley was on the snow covering the summer TMB trail which was not challenging and quite enjoyable, a gentle amble down to the flat lands to pick up the road track below covered in the evidence of landslides and avalanches in the winter, but that was nothing compared to the road that had disappeared and the landslides visible and road reconstruction on the way down the Val Veny towards Courmayeur.
I was delighted with the descent down Val Veny and took a short rest at the bridge at the bottom of the valley which allowed me to descend in reasonable time given the full rucksack to the Hobo campsite. What a joy! I picked up the balcony track that traversed behind the campsites and the track was in excellent condition. There is a choice of campsite. I chose the Hobo campsite which was not a disappointment with a lawn finer than a golf course for my bivvi tent and a fine welcome from the Canadian kayakers who we worked out had over taken me in the forest in the valley above the campsite. The showers were hot and without question the finest on the entire Tour Mont Blanc circuit to the best of my knowledge. The evening welcome at the bar was polite, civil and welcoming. I was delighted they serve me a beer and crisps. The Canadian kayakers were enjoying some red wine from Aosta valley outside in the evening sunshine, they had just arrived too, the evening evolved into a social occasion with exchanges of mountain adventures shared by all. Unlike me they had ventured out in the stormy weather before going up Col de Bonhomme and then taken shelter near Contamine valley having crossed the wire bridge and gone up to Col Tricot in the storms, wind and rains and needing to shelter Canadian style. Apparently they had asked some locals if they could take shelter in a barn for the night, they were given permission by some old local men which they were very grateful for, but apparently were moved on in the morning a bit earlier than expected and so headed for Col Bon Homme like me. It was good to chat to them on arriving at the Hobo campsite, I am not a kayaker so I enjoyed talking to them about that too.
With light descending a scurry of evening activity ensued to get tents ready for the night. We all ate pesto pasta together before sleeping well.
3rd June 2024 Courmayeur to Refuge Helena
The morning coffee was excellent. In the morning the shop opened for provisions, superb fresh Italian vegetables, a good selection of items including basic sanitary items, patisserie and fine sable biscuits were for sale. I was not surprised to bump into the Canadian kayakers again at breakfast time who were a bit slower having enjoyed a bottle of red wine reflecting on their multiple adventures during the previous week in France. After a peaceful rest at Camping Hobo dealing with my surprisingly sore heals, I managed to catch a ride with a local Italian and the Canadian kayakers to Courmayeur, we got dropped off at Piazza Monte Bianco before getting a bus ticket to PlanPrincipeu which is in Val Ferret.
The next 3 photos are from beside the track leading to Refuge Helena which was in places partially covered in snow and hard to see although it was not completely blanketed out.
I was on my way to Switzerland. The Canadians were heading back to Geneva via the Mont Blanc tunnel, the road under the Mont Blanc. I made my way to the Refuge Helena on foot.
I hoped to go up to Col Grand Ferret that evening but my direct line upwards was met with a snow banked serac from slid down snow that I didn’t trust putting my weight on so I came down again somewhat frustrated. The snow ran out just above the snow bank too as it was just a bit of snow that had slid down the mountainside and so I needed a rethink. I descended a rest and to get over my frustration and wasted effort and bivvied lower down.
I slept very well tucked well out of the wind and I woke with a view to trying a different approach to skirt around to the right more.
For anyone interested there is a winter room at the back of Refuge Helena, it has a white door with black writing on saying winter room. I prefer to bivvi outdoors in the fresh air.
4th June 2024
I made a second attempt to go up to Col Grand Ferret in the morning when the snow was fractionally more solid under foot. I went straight up initially, then across right taking care on the avalanche slopes above the exposed cliff to the right of Refuge Helena, I skirted around right and then up to the top ridge and along the top where you could see patches of Earth and rock at the top and avoided the sharp exposure on the left and cornice to the right which could easily drop away.
I pottered along the top of the mountains and down to the Col Grand Ferret avoiding the snow blown snow on the right side of the top (lee) which could possibly drop away.
Other people had started off from the bottom further to the right where a summer path was initially partially visible and they reached the top before me using the slippy hillside and as their chosen terrain but I enjoyed my winter line using winter skills.
I was delighted to enter into Switzerland, I entered through a small cornice in the Col Grand Ferret and stepped down and walked across under the much larger cornice above my head to the left. There was a nice line behind / above the large cornice on the left which looped around the far side but I headed across to basin under the cornice which was an informed risk acceptance decision to La Peule Refuge - which was not open yet but mostly free of snow. It was a delightful walk.
I then started on my way down to La Fouly crossing the banks of snow that covered the summer TMB path on the steep mountain sides, the snow had foot prints in it which made a sort of pathway across the snow patches which one would not want to slide off as the valley was a long way down. I went across in my alpine boots which gave me control on my feet, each foot placement was kicked in a little at the desired angle to avoid a slip on the snow.
I had an ice axe in my left hand, and a walking pole in my right hand for the moments when the snow gave way underfoot. Others used summer trekking boots with crampons on and walking poles.
The ascent up to Col Grand Ferret and the descent to La Fouly was not for the faint hearted and the ascent was certainly the hardest section on my Spring walk along the TMB to see how much snow remained in the Cols of the Tour Mont Blanc. It was not at all technical from a rock climbing perspective just a sloppy, slushy snowy experience that I would say would be more enjoyable earlier in the year when the snow was colder and held in pace better. Slush can be very slippy. I have winter walking experience in Scotland and the Alps which helped me make informed decisions and take risks that others would wisely not take. The training to become an International Mountain Leader helped me do this slippy sloppy ascent up to col Grand Ferret.
The rains arrived on the way down to La Fouly. I was relieved to find the local village shop still open so I bought a tin of goulash, delicious sachets of grated celeriac, grated beetroot and some corn tortilla chips. I had ravioli for dinner and superb Swiss strawberry yoghurts before settling into my bivvi tent for a good rest. The campsite reception was well stocked with food and drink for sale as usual. No change there.
La Fouly was a rest point for me, I drank 3 litres of liquid that evening and the following morning whilst doing some washing and drying out the clothes and myself. It’s such a relaxing campsite. It’s in my top 5. For breakfast I headed to the campsite reception where the coffee machine was ready to go, there was a croissant for sale and I celebrated my arrival in Switzerland with a coffee and pot of coffee ice cream which I added to my coffee and admired the surrounding glaciers, snowy mountains whilst enjoying an iced café late and fresh morning air. I ate all my remaining food and packed up my belongings.
I popped into La Fouly and got some Swiss cash out of the cash point at the tourist information office. I purchased a TMR bus & train ticket to Martigny from the bus driver. I planned to take the Mont Blanc Express from Martigny back around to Vallorcine, France, and go back down the Chamonix Valley.
I got the next TMR bus at La Fouly, it stopped at Orsieres train station, conveniently on the correct side for the TMR train descending to Sebrancher from Orsieres, where a change of TMR train was needed to reach Martigny from Sebrancher. I crossed to platform one at Sebrancher and stepped on to the Martigny train connection. It was all very easy.
At Martigny, the nice Swiss man at the ticket office supplied a ticket to the Swiss / French border which I paid for in Swiss Francs. He also sold me the onwards ticket in France, from ticket for Vallorcine to Le Buet, which I paid for in Euros. I had 2 tickets. I was obliged to show my passport to be able to purchase the tickets in the ticket office.
Vallorcine station in France below is the place where historically the Swiss border control was and where the Swiss military were stationed.
I had a superb journey on the Mont Blanc Express from Martigny to Vallorcine, platform 40 is up the platform and to the left at Martigny. I headed for the Swiss / French border on the Mont Blanc Express.
I got off at Vallorcine and crossed over to another platform for the connecting French Mont Blanc Express service heading down the Chamonix valley, I got off at Le Buet which is only a short journey. I did a 5 - 10 minutes walk to a campsite called Camping Montets. It has very clean facilities and slept there. It is a beautiful place. Nature is all around. There is a strict no shoes rule for the showers area. The tent area is beautifully green. There are even yellow pulsatilles on the roadside approaching the campsite Montets. In high season they offer pizzas and beers here.
5th June 2024 Le Buet to Notre Dame
I awoke well rested looking forward to stepping on the train down the Chamonix Valley to Saint Gervais Les Bains. It was a direct train.
Outside St Gervais Les Bains I waited for the bus 84 back up to Contamines Lay bus stop, from where I followed the riverside path back up to the Notre Dame car park to reach my car and removed my stiff Alpine boots.
My alpine boots are now tidied away for the year and the summer trekking boots are now ready for an outing. I am glad I saved my heals from further time in the alpine boots as the TMB route terrain is arguable more suitable for a summer trekking boots or trail shoes as there are long section on the flat bottoms of valley and on flat paths and roads. The alpine boots served me well on snow section and to reach the wintery, snowy Cols of the Tour Mont Blanc summer route even in June 2024.
White Risk App showing snow levels on 11th June 2024
Last night it snowed at Col Grand Ferret again. Check out the App White Risk and zoom in to see the fresh snow fall last night on 14th to 15th June 2024.
Feel free to browse Mont Blanc Trips if you want to book a trekking trip, a short hike, a day trip or a culture or town tour. The website it www.montblanctrips.com
Kind regards and all the best,
Claire Williams
International Mountain Leader (UK trained & qualified).
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